Diploma Module 3 Chapter 1 - Strapwork Pattern Structures

Historical Study of British Embroidery

Strapwork Pattern Structures

In studying strapwork patterns in the early Tudor period I have also included other sources of design, not limited to either embroidery or Great Britain that have similar characteristics.  My work is presented in a square, 30cm x 30cm Seawhites ring-bound sketchbook, with both black and white pages.  The colour scheme used throughout is black and grey scale, white, red/Golden Open Red Oxide, silver, gold and copper.  Pages from my sketchbook are shown below, with descriptions where appropriate.

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Breastplates from designs for armour by Jacob Halder, Master Armourer at Greenwich from 1576 to 1607.  These were taken from facsimile pages in the V&A (my photos).  I was intrigued that painted designs for armour made for specific dignitaries from the period 1559-1587 still exist in the Almain Armourers' Album - one of the V&As greatest Elizabethan treasures.

'These ensembles were the private yachts of their day: each would set its owner back the equivalent of around £2 million. Each of these armours was made-to-measure, reflecting its owner’s posture and vitality.' V&A The Amain Armourers' Album

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Designs from pictures in the National Portrait Gallery and V&A, (my photos)
From top left clockwise:
Sleeve of Henry VIII - from part of cartoon for wall painting for Whitehall Palace by Hans Holbein the Younger c.1536/7.  National Portrait Gallery.
Breeches of Matthias, Archduke of Austria. Unknown Artist c.1577.  V&A on loan from Royal Armouries.
Breeches of Henry Wriothesley, 3rd Earl of Southampton. Unknown artist c.1600.  National Portrait Gallery.
Hem of Henry VIII - as above
Table carpet from The Somerset House Conference.  Unknown artist c.1604.  National Portrait Gallery.
Sleeve of Sir Henry Lee by Anthonis Mor, 1568.  National Portrait Gallery.

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Ceiling from Theobalds, Herts, 1592, stitch samples inserted.
I found the working of some of the stitches, particularly Plaited Braid Stitch, tricky. Even when using different threads, grounds and varying the tension it was difficult to work a uniform stitch. I spent many frustrated hours.  In desperation I ordered Elizabethan Stitches by Jacqui Carey and using her diagrams for Elizabethan Plaited Braid Stitch Variation I, I had success.  (Mary Thomas has never let me down before!)