Sunday 13 October 2019

Diploma Module 3 Chapter 4 - Stenciled Designs onto Fabric

Band or Braid Stencils

4-1
  • Method 1 - folded and manipulated freezer paper strip/s to create a decorative band
  • Method 2 - folded and cut through strips, opened out

Stencils produced from above layered using paints and paintstiks as in Chapter 2, interference and acrylic iridescent paints being sponged and dragged over stencils to produce braid-like interwoven patterns.









Diploma Module 3 Chapter 3 - Paper Braids as Stencils

Paper Braids as Stencils

Strapwork pattern pages from my sketchbook including:
  • woven structures
  • open structures together with technical diagrams representing the pattern structure of knots and woven and plaited braids, some using the Manx Crosses as inspiration
  • linking possibilities - shaped bands in tracing paper and linked single hollow shapes.













Diploma Module 3 Chapter 2 - Development Work from Research

Development Work From Research

1. Braid Stitches as a Printing Block
2. Plaited and Woven Braids and Knots

Stitch samples were made using garden twine, paper twine and string, on rigid plastic and rug canvas (2-1 to 2-4).  

I took this opportunity to experiment using Heat'n'Form (2-6 to 2-10).  Rigid plastic was used to support the stitches, in some cases, as I love the extra textural elements on the print from the ink printed from the plastic.  Similarly, the rug canvas added additional interest. To obtain the most from the printing process I didn't use a rigid block to support the stitched samples, but supported them on hand held rounds of cords attached to the back. I could, therefore, manipulate the stitches and their support during the printing process to introduce as much ink/interest as possible on the print.

The chunky braids were made using Nutscene Polished Flax Garden Twine 2mm and paper twine.










2-5 Braids including:
  • square/flat knot
  • half hitch knot
  • single chain stitch
  • five strand plaited
  • half square knot/mermaids' beads










From these I made relief prints and took rubbings, keeping to my red, white, black, silver and gold theme using:
  • Daler Rowney Interference Colour  Medium Shimmering Copper 712
  • Golden Fluid Acrylic Iridescent Silver (fine)
  • Golden Fluid Acrylic Iridescent Pearl (fine)
  • Golden Fluid Acrylic Red Oxide
  • Markal Paintstik red and white
  • PlayArt metallics


























On the above prints I particularly liked the contrast between the relief print obtained from the simple stitch together with the contrasting negative image from the Heat'n'Form.













The rubbing were less successful than the prints.  Rubbings on tissue produced holes no matter how careful I was and the rubbings were poorly defined. In a way this was overcome with the Heat'n'Form which took the characteristics of the braids and stitches well, though producing a negative image.  (The turquoise iridescent paintstik was used for rubbing as no other was available in my colour scheme but as it wasn't particularly successful I didn't pursue this.)



2-30 Background - relief printed stitches and braids on black sketchbook paper

        Braids from left to right:
  • five strand flat
  • four strand flat
  • Josephine knot/Carrick bend worked openly
  • four strand
  • four strand braid over double strand
  • four strand braid over double strand 
  • half square knot/mermaids' beads
  • four strand rounded
  • horizontal half-hitch/buttonhole
  • horizontal half-hitch/buttonhole
  • three stranded on central core
  • needleweaving
  • twining
  • Genoese bar (single) 
  • square/flat knot


2-31 Background - relief printed stitches on black tissue

        Braids from left to right:
  • rounded plait
  • weaving over stationary strand
  • decorated wrapped braid
  • single chain - 2 cords
  • square knot used to form net type fabric
  • 4 strand square knot braid
  • half hitch/buttonhole knot
  • tatted bar
  • four strands woven to point on each side
  • split ply braid
  • split ply braid
Bibliography
Braiding and Knotting Techniques and Projects by Constantine A Belash
Making Plaits and Braids by June Barker
Macramé A Comprehensive Guide Heidy Willsmore

Diploma Module 3 Chapter 1 - Strapwork Pattern Structures

Historical Study of British Embroidery

Strapwork Pattern Structures

In studying strapwork patterns in the early Tudor period I have also included other sources of design, not limited to either embroidery or Great Britain that have similar characteristics.  My work is presented in a square, 30cm x 30cm Seawhites ring-bound sketchbook, with both black and white pages.  The colour scheme used throughout is black and grey scale, white, red/Golden Open Red Oxide, silver, gold and copper.  Pages from my sketchbook are shown below, with descriptions where appropriate.




1-3
Breastplates from designs for armour by Jacob Halder, Master Armourer at Greenwich from 1576 to 1607.  These were taken from facsimile pages in the V&A (my photos).  I was intrigued that painted designs for armour made for specific dignitaries from the period 1559-1587 still exist in the Almain Armourers' Album - one of the V&As greatest Elizabethan treasures.

'These ensembles were the private yachts of their day: each would set its owner back the equivalent of around £2 million. Each of these armours was made-to-measure, reflecting its owner’s posture and vitality.' V&A The Amain Armourers' Album



1-4
Designs from pictures in the National Portrait Gallery and V&A, (my photos)
From top left clockwise:
Sleeve of Henry VIII - from part of cartoon for wall painting for Whitehall Palace by Hans Holbein the Younger c.1536/7.  National Portrait Gallery.
Breeches of Matthias, Archduke of Austria. Unknown Artist c.1577.  V&A on loan from Royal Armouries.
Breeches of Henry Wriothesley, 3rd Earl of Southampton. Unknown artist c.1600.  National Portrait Gallery.
Hem of Henry VIII - as above
Table carpet from The Somerset House Conference.  Unknown artist c.1604.  National Portrait Gallery.
Sleeve of Sir Henry Lee by Anthonis Mor, 1568.  National Portrait Gallery.











1-9
Ceiling from Theobalds, Herts, 1592, stitch samples inserted.
I found the working of some of the stitches, particularly Plaited Braid Stitch, tricky. Even when using different threads, grounds and varying the tension it was difficult to work a uniform stitch. I spent many frustrated hours.  In desperation I ordered Elizabethan Stitches by Jacqui Carey and using her diagrams for Elizabethan Plaited Braid Stitch Variation I, I had success.  (Mary Thomas has never let me down before!)